Ancient Irish recipe revives corned beef


Northern Irish firm O’Doherty’s Fine Meats has launched a premium corned beef product based on a 600-year-old recipe.

The firm's md, Pat O'Doherty studied historic documents in his local library and pieced together ancient recipes over a period of six years to develop the product.

O'Doherty said: "The records show that Ireland was the biggest exporter of corned beef until the middle of the 19th century. During the Napoleonic Wars, for instance, soldiers on both sides of the conflict enjoyed corned beef from Irish suppliers.

"It was a natural product that was cured using a large-grained coarse rock salt that resembled sweetcorn hence the name 'corned beef'."

Salt curing challenge

One of O'Doherty's biggest challenges was getting the salt curing right using today's much finer salt. He used his background in science to develop a new kind of salt, which is used to cure the beef over a period of three months for sale either as a joint or pre-sliced.

"The greatest strength of the ancient recipe is that it's about making real food. Modern-day beef is injected with water, chemicals and functional ingredients. Our product is unadulterated and cured naturally like ham. It most definitely won't become a tinned meat."

True to the form of its ancestors, the firm also sources grass-fed Aberdeen Angus cattle reared on the shores of Lough Erne.

This is the second product the firm produces according to ancient curing techniques. It launched Fermanagh Black Bacon in 2000, which started as a niche product but now holds "cult status".

Initial quantities of Fermanagh Black Corned Beef are on sale at independent speciality food retailers in Denmark, Belgium, the Netherlands, Great Britain and Ireland.

O'Doherty's Fine Meats also supplies high-end restaurants and caterers. Interest in this area has been "phenomenal" and has come from as far afield as Australia.