Beauty claims 'only skin deep'
A significant proportion of so-called 'beauty foods', drinks and supplements are not backed by scientific proof, according to a nutriceuticals expert.
Dr Jörg Grünwald, a leading international authority on the use of bioactive herbals and botanicals in foods, recently conducted a study of cosmeceutical products to assess the science underpinning them.
Speaking at the Beauty from the Inside Out conference organised by Leatherhead Food International (LFI), he said many made "exorbitant claims without backing them up with proof of any kind"
There were several studies proving the general antioxidant effects of many of the active ingredients used in cosmeceuticals, but what was needed were targeted human studies. "Most products make claims based on the efficacy of the individual ingredients, and not for the products themselves. Nevertheless, there is encouraging scientific evidence for the effectiveness of some products, even if the methodology often leaves room for improvement," said Grünwald.
There was also some confusion over whether claims about skin elasticity, hydration or anti-ageing actually constituted health claims, and whether they were in turn subject to the forthcoming European Nutrition and Health Claims Regulation, said Kath Veal, LFI regulatory expert. "Cosmeceuticals are a bit of a grey area under this regulation because the definition of health isn't very clear."
Despite the concern, the market for cosmeceuticals was growing rapidly, said Carla Ogeia, a consultant at market researcher Mintel. More than 500 new beauty foods or drinks from anti-wrinkle jam to marshmallows enriched with collagen, and many more supplements, were launched globally between January 2004 and September 2006, she said.
The bulk were beverages (45%), followed by confectionery (16%) and dairy (9%). Just 149 came from Europe, she said, and these were mainly sold in Asia Pacific, where the market was the most buoyant. Key ingredients were vitamins, co-enzyme Q10, collagen, hyaluronic acid, ceramide and various botanicals.
