Bigger isn't always better

From his small production unit on an industrial estate near Dartford you wouldn't think chocolatier Gerard Coleman would give the Godivas of this world many sleepless nights. But when Coleman, otherwise known as L'Artisan du Chocolat, won this year's Best Producer accolade at the Observer Food Monthly/Waitrose awards he proved that small producers can compete with the food industry big boys.

Coleman is one of a growing breed of small producers that are managing to combine the advantages of artisan, hands-on business with the clout and financial rewards of larger companies. And it's paying off. British Airways and top chefs, Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal are among his customers.

Manufacturing on a small scale often produces better results because companies are more able to fine-tune their processes, often making products by hand rather than on a conveyor belt. Compare, for example, mass-produced cheddar cheese with a farmhouse cheddar handmade using traditional skills. The latter has a far more rounded, complex flavour.

Small businesses are doing a great job of protecting and even reviving heirloom and local food goods, too. Supporting small producers helps maintain a heritage that would otherwise die out.

Until fairly recently many small companies were floundering -- unable to compete with the big firms that used economies of scale to their advantage and had larger advertising budgets.

But things are changing. The growing importance consumers are placing on provenance and quality, perceived or actual, has led to a resurgence in the popularity of smaller, high quality firms.

In a recent survey carried out by the independent IGD think tank, 59% of consumers said they were extremely interested in buying local food. Supermarkets such as Waitrose are also doing their bit to support smaller players. Waitrose is changing it purchasing policies to allow small producers to supply just a few or even one local branch with goods.

The food industry needs to reflect this consumer trend and support small firms. Supermarkets need to adapt their buying policies so small, local producers get a look in. Small companies also need to market themselves ferociously.

Joanne Finney is a food writer at Good Housekeeping Magazine, http://www.goodhousekeeping.co.uk​​